T 3 Sumbulova glavica/gradina/, zaseok Papučići na Berinovcu

T 3 Sumbulova glavica/gradina/, zaseok Papučići na Berinovcu

Sumbulova glavica/fort/village Papučići, Berinovac

S Tinom se, nakon 1945. pa do njegove smrti, često družio agronom Ante Ujević. Svoja sjećanja zabilježio je u knjizi S Tinom. Iz spomenute knjige saznajemo o važnosti Sumbulove glavice tijekom pjesnikovih boravaka u zavičaju.

Zanimalo me kako je Tin doživio Imotsku krajinu za vrijeme „sto dana u Imotskom i Krivodolu“. Pričao mi je da je gotovo svakoga dana pješačio na Sumbulovu gradinu u Lokvičićima, što je udaljeno oko kilometar i po od Krivodola prema Splitu. To je brežuljak s kojeg se pruža široki vidik na Imotsko polje i na čitavi lanac kraških jezera koja okružuju polje sve do grada Imotskoga. Zapadni dio Imotskog polja, Blato, tada je bilo pod vodom cijele godine, pa se tamo odlazilo u ribarenje, žene su prale rublje, štedeći tako vodu u svojim čatrnjama, a muškarci i djeca za to su se vrijeme kupali u toploj vodi. Usred Blata nalazio se otočić u zelenilu od trske i močvarnih biljaka, na koje su se nekoć, pred Turcima, povlačili fratri iz Imotskog pa je taj lijepi zeleni otočić zbog toga nazvan Manastir. Tin je po nekoliko sati ostajao na Gradini, uživajući u ljepoti imotskih pejzaža.

Motreći oko/poljski krajolik sa sjeveroistočne padine Sumbulove gradine, jasno nam je da je veliki broj stihova Uspavanke iz Krivodola inspiriran upravo pogledom s ovog mjesta jer stihovi samozvano dolaze u svijest gledatelja: „…Zrak će da se potrese na novim prozračnostima i drhtajima iskričavih voda. Kroz visove će da prolete slutnje ritmova i nova vrcanja idealne svjetlosti…

Ali najveće čudo, ljepota ljepotā, to će biti djevičanska svetkovina zastajalih voda. Od blata, potoka, kanala, rijeka i jezera zasjat će odsjevi čarobnih ogledala,vidovita isparavanja u svijet halucinacija, preobraženje protega u svijet višeg iskustva pošto si sa sviješću dobre i duboke životinje gledao prve bademe u kruni bijeloga cvijeta, doznat ćeš za pijanstvo bolje od vina i duhana; sjetit ćeš se prve noći kada si, pod borom i hrastom, uz listak grabova grma što u vatri mirisavo dimi, premda nije čempres, iz blisko odsječene daljine, pod najvećim brojem zvijezda, preko brda i polja, kao basnu pravoga Istoka, ugledao i posmatrao Imotski u vidu nage ljepotice protegnute na logu od leopardova krzna i mirisa, posute biserjem po raskošnom tijelu;…“

Tin was friend with Ante Ujević from 1945 till death. Ante has written down his memories in a book named S Tinom (With Tin). The book teaches us about the importance that Sumbulova glavica had during the poet’s stay at his home.

I was curious about how Tin felt about the area of Imotski during “the hundred days in Krivodol”. He told me that he walked to Sumbulova gradina in Lokvičić every day, which is about a mile from Krivodol towards Split. Sumbulova gradina is a hillside with a panoramic view of the Imotski field and the many lakes surrounding the field all the way to the town. The western part of the field, Blato, was, at the time, flooded the whole year so people went there for fishing, women washed the laundry there saving the water in their own cisterns, while men and children went swimming in the warm water. In the middle of Blato, among the green of reed and the acquatic plants, there was an islet where once the monks from Imotski had fled from the Turks, so that pretty green islet was named Manastir. Tin would stay on Gradina for hours, enjoying the beauty of the landscapes of Imotski.

Observing the fields from the northeastern slope of Sumbulova gradina we can clearly see that many verses of Uspavanka iz Krivodola (Lullaby from Krivodol) were inspired by the view from this place, where the verses come flooding into the viewer: “Air shall shake on the new translucences and trembles of glittering waters. Premonitions of rhythms and new sparklings of the ideal light shall fly through the heights…

But the greatest miracle, the greatest of all beauties, will be the virginal feast of the stagnating waters. The mud, the streams, the watercourses, the rivers and the lakes will shine as a reflection of the magic mirrors, as a predictive vanishing into the world of hallucinations, as a metamorphose into a world greater experience. Having seen the first almonds in the crown of the white flower with the awareness of a tamed animal, you will experience an ecstasy which is better than wine and tobacco; you’ll remember the first night when you saw and contemplated, under the pine and oak, by the hornbeam that is odorantly smoking in fire, although it’s not the cypress, from a small distance, under a multitude of stars, over hills and fields, like an eastern fable, the town of Imotski lying like a naked beauty on the sofa of leopard fur and perfumes, with its splendid body covered in pearls;…”

„sto dana u Imotskom i Krivodolu“ – razdoblje od prosinca 1925. do ožujka 1926. kada je Tin protjeran iz Beograda i pod pratnjom doveden u Krivodol gdje je živjela njegova rodbina

“One hundred days in Imotski and Krivodol” – the period from December 1925 to March 1926 when Tin was exiled from Belgrade and taken under escort to Krivodol where his relatives lived.

ANTE UJEVIĆ (Tujin)

ANTE UJEVIĆ (Tujin), inženjer agronomije, rodio se 1924. u Krivodolu. Nakon završene srednje poljoprivredne škole u Bukovu i Križevcima diplomirao je agronomiju u Zagrebu. Bavio se stručnim i znanstvenim radom, objavljivao radove u stručnim časopisima i pisao stručne knjige. Pokrenuo je časopis Sjemenarstvo i bio njegov prvi glavni urednik. Surađivao je na Poljoprivrednoj enciklopediji Leksikografskog zavoda. Odlaskom u mirovinu posvetio se prevodilačkom radu. Umro je u Zagrebu 2009.

Ante Ujević, an agricultural engineer, was born in 1924 in Krivodol. After finishing agricultural school in Bukovo and Križevci he graduated from the Faculty of Agriculture in Zagreb. He was involved in scientific and professional work, he published in journals and wrote reference books. He founded the magazine Seed and was its first editor. He collaborated on the Agricultural Encyclopaedia of the Institute of Lexicography. In retirement he was dedicated to translating. He died in Zagreb.

Pretpostavlja se da je prije dolaska Rimljana na Sumbulovoj gradini postojala ilirska utvrda. Veliki broj gomila i stećaka u blizini Gradine nepresušno je vrelo legendi.

Neki povjesničari rimski grad Billubio - Billubium smještaju na prostor današnjeg Berinovca. Ilirska utvrda na Sumbulovoj gradini služila je Rimljanima kao postaja za odmor konja i putnika. Jedna od legendi govori da se tu 150. rodio Lucius Artorius Castus – engleski kralj Artur.

Još za Tinova vremena mještani su rimskim putom išli u polje… u Imotski.

It is assumed that,there had been an Illyrian fortification on Sumbulova gradina before the arrival of the Romans . Many mounds and tomb stones near it are an inexhaustible source of legends. Some historians place the Roman city of Billubium in the area of today’s Berinovac. The Illyrian fortification on Sumbulova gradina served the Romans as a resting station for horses and passengers. One legend says that Lucius Artorius Castus – English King Arthur, was born there in 150. Even in Tin’s time, the locals used the Roman road to go to the fields… to Imotski.

The deceased Croatian poet Lujo Medvidović, born in Berinovac, dedicated his poem Hrvatski bonsai to Tin and to to Billubium.

Hrvatski bonsai

Moj Bilubio, oduvijek si bio

dvostruko voljen, kud ratar, k'o ratnik,

dvostruko željen, kad navir i stratnik.

svud zvan, a neznan, tko mi te je skrio?

Gledam Te s polja, posvuda te ima,

k'o konjska stegna steru Ti se strane,

na Tebi sunce omrkne i svane,

ljubuješ golem s vječnim oblacima.

I Tin je s Tobom djetinjao dane

dojeći davno, k'o i sam nekada,

drag brdski miris vilinskih pomuda.

Po bijeloj cesti ode Tvoja pravda.

Još Tvoje laste svoj Božić čekaju

moj nespokojni, hrvatski, bonsaju!

Bilubio – dvostruko voljen, okrenut na dvije strane (polju i brdu), rimsko ime za Berinovac koji je služio kao postaja za odmorište, zaštitu putnika i promjenu konja.

bonsai – patuljasta biljka, posebno podrezana i onemogućena u rastu. Cijenjena na Dalekom istoku

Billubium – twice loved, facing two sides (the field and the hill), a Roman name for Berinovac that served as a resting station, for protection of passengers and change of horses.

Lujo Medvidović

LUJO MEDVIDOVIĆ se rodio 5. siječnja 1950. u Lokvičićima, a umro u Osijeku 4. siječnja 2013. Bio je hrvatski književnik i odvjetnik. Osnovnu je školu završio u Krivodolu, gimnaziju i Pravni fakultet u Splitu, a magisterij u Osijeku. Živio je u Osijeku i Zagrebu. Pisao je pjesme i romane. Bio je članom Društva hrvatskih književnika od 1995. Objavio je roman Castus i pravda te 19 zbirki pjesama.

Lujo Medvidović was born on January 5 1950 in Lokvičići and died in Osijek on January 4 2013. He was a Croatian writer and lawyer. He finished middle school in Krivodol and high school and law school in Split and a Master’s in Osijek. He lived in Osijek and Zagreb. He wrote poems and novels. He has been a member of the Croatian Association of Writers from 1995. He has published a novel Castus i pravda (Castus and Justice) and 19 books of poems.